Two Paths to Perfection: Somni and Providence Earn Three Stars
In a moment that redefined the landscape of West Coast fine dining, Los Angeles has, at long last, earned its place on the world’s highest gastronomic tier. During a ceremony held in Sacramento, Michelin awarded its coveted three-star rating to not one but two L.A. restaurants. Each represents a vastly different story of ambition, resilience, and culinary vision. For Somni, it was a meteoric ascent. For Providence, a recognition two decades in the making.
Providence, helmed by chef Michael Cimarusti, opened in 2005 and has long stood as a benchmark for seafood-forward, technique-driven cuisine in the city. Built on a foundation of French culinary discipline and California’s abundant seasonal ingredients, the restaurant has not only endured but elevated the L.A. dining scene through its emphasis on sustainability and mentorship. With the addition of a Michelin Green Star alongside its third star, Providence is now recognized not just for its flavor but for its environmental stewardship.
By contrast, Somni represents something more ephemeral and dreamlike, fitting given the restaurant’s Catalan name. Chef Aitor Zabala, formerly of José Andrés’s ThinkFoodGroup, first introduced Somni in 2018 within the SLS Beverly Hills, only for it to close during the pandemic. In 2024, he reopened the project as a standalone destination where avant-garde Spanish modernism meets SoCal produce with whimsical clarity. In less than a year, the new Somni achieved what few thought possible by vaulting directly into the Michelin pantheon, joining an exclusive global circle of just 157 restaurants that have reached three-star status.
A Ceremony of Stars and Shadows
The announcement, made as part of the Michelin Guide California 2025 reveal, cast light on a number of culinary milestones. Five restaurants received their first stars, including Lilo, Mori Nozomi, Restaurant Ki, Silvers Omakase, and Sun Moon Studio. Each was recognized for unique visions ranging from precise omakase to globally influenced tasting menus. Two others, Enclos and Kiln, ascended to two stars and are now marked as rising forces in the state’s gastronomic future.
But not all was celebration. This year’s guide also saw the quiet retreat of several previously starred restaurants. In San Francisco, Osito and Aphotic closed their doors. West Hollywood’s Sushi Ginza Onodera was likewise omitted following its closure. More striking, however, was the exclusion of Hana Re in Costa Mesa and Chez TJ in Mountain View. Both had held Michelin stars in 2024 but lost their standing this year. In the hyper-competitive world of fine dining, even legacy and quality can prove impermanent.
Adding a note of digital-era irony, Somni’s long-awaited recognition was inadvertently leaked ahead of schedule. A video posted early to Michelin’s YouTube channel showed Zabala and his team receiving the news from Michelin international director Gwendal Poullennec. It circulated online hours before the official reveal. While the moment of surprise may have been lost, the impact of the announcement was not. For L.A.’s culinary community, the honor stands as a triumphant validation of its global standing. For Somni, it is the realization of a vision born, lost, and reborn.
The Full California Roster: Michelin 2025
Three Stars:
Addison, Atelier Crenn, Benu, Providence, Quince, SingleThread, Somni, The French Laundry
Two Stars:
Acquerello, Aubergine, Birdson, Californios, Commis, Enclos, Harbor House, Hayato, Kiln, Lazy Bear, Mélisse, Saison, Sons & Daughters, Vespertine
One Star:
7 Adams, 715, Angler, Auberge du Soleil, Auro, Bell’s, Camphor, Caruso’s, Chez Noir, Citrin, Cyrus, Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura, Gwen, Heritage, Hilda and Jesse, Holbox, Jeune et Jolie, Kali, Kato, Kenzo, Kin Khao, Knife Pleat, Le Comptoir at Bar Crenn, Lilo, Localis, Madcap, Meteora, Mister Jiu’s, Mori Nozomi, Morihiro, n/naka, Nari, Niku Steakhouse, Nisei, Nozawa Bar, O’ by Claude Le Tohic, Orsa & Winston, Osteria Mozza, Pasta | Bar, Plumed Horse, Press, Protégé, R | O-Rebel Omakase, Restaurant Ki, San Ho Won, Selby’s, Shibumi, Shin Sushi, Silvers Omakase, Six Test Kitchen, Soichi, Sorrel, Ssal, State Bird Provisions, Sun Moon Studio, Sushi Inaba, Sushi Kaneyoshi, The Kitchen, The Progress, The Restaurant at Justin, The Village Pub, Uka, Valle, Wakuriya