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Jewelry

Pearl dealers expect strong holiday sales buoyed by celebrity visibility

As demand for pearls climbs, jewelry retailers share strategies for selling colored varieties and Edison pearls that extend beyond white-pearl classics.

Interior of the Majorica pearl showroom in Manacor with red and teal display cases of jewelry.
Photo: Steffen Mokosch / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The pearl market is heading into the holiday season with momentum. Across trade shows and industry events, dealers and retailers report consistent enthusiasm for pearls among designers, manufacturers, buyers and shoppers, according to the American Gem Trade Association. High-profile red-carpet moments have raised the category’s profile: the Met Gala in May featured pearl jewelry on multiple attendees, and Naomi Osaka wore Mikimoto pearl earrings and bangles at Wimbledon.

Yet the real test of whether celebrity sightings translate to sales is playing out on the retail floor. “We didn’t feel the effect of any one red carpet moment in particular,” says Eric Yen, whose San Francisco jewelry store carries pearls. “But almost every new customer who comes to our booth at trade shows opens with the same question: ‘Are pearls coming back? We’ve seen celebrities wearing them, and sports players wearing them.'” The visibility is clearly reaching potential buyers, even if no single moment has driven a sales spike.

Colored Pearls Are the Draw

Retailers are moving beyond white strands, which remain steady sellers but lack distinction. “Classic white strands will always sell, but they’re also what every store in the mall has,” Yen says. Introducing customers to natural metallic purples or true blue Akoya pearls changes the conversation and positions these gems as something distinct from what they may already know.

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Tahitian peacock pearls have become increasingly difficult to find and expensive. “When they are available, you have to pay top dollar for it,” says Betty Sue King, who operates a pearl business in Sausalito, California. She recently acquired a pair of 12mm Tahitian pearls in pistachio with celadon tones, which she found remarkable.

Edison Pearls Surge in Popularity

Edison pearls—round, bead-nucleated freshwater pearls grown in hybrid mussels in China—are experiencing a surge, with quality improving season after season. The pearls have yielded impressive colors consistently, making them popular enough that retailers are devoting dedicated display space to them. Popular shades include purple, lavender, and mauve. King recently invested in 11mm Edisons in pink-white and Tahitian-inspired blues and greens. “Shoppers who want that look without the genuine Tahitian price have an option—but you have to disclose the origin,” she says.

Holiday Gift Strategy

As the season approaches, pairs of pearls dominate holiday demand. Bert Esterhuysen of Rothschild Trading Company in Pittsburgh expects continued enthusiasm for exceptional material. “I’d rather have one exceptional piece in the showcase than five mediocre ones,” he says. This December, Rothschild will test trunk shows pairing contemporary pearl jewelry with antique and vintage pieces, allowing customers to see how modern designs and historic pieces tell different stories.

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Converting the Customer

Retailers emphasize putting product in customers’ hands rather than relying on education alone. Since skin tones vary and pearls come in many shades of white, having a range of options for customers to try is essential. When a fine pearl is placed next to an ordinary one, the differences in luster, surface quality, color, and matching become apparent to the customer, according to Esterhuysen. And if a retailer doesn’t have the right piece in stock, reaching out to suppliers in the moment can help close the sale. “Retailers don’t necessarily need to stock everything,” Esterhuysen says. “They need to know whom to call.”

This article was compiled by the Glamorade editorial desk from the official announcements and reporting listed under Sources.